Pucker up for Some Like It Tart Panna Cotta

Hello! Hello!

I didn’t plan it this way, but today is strawberry day. Again. (It could also be strawberry-rhubarb day again – see Playing Around). I seem to be smitten. First it was the strawberry-rhubarb cake. And then the swoony pictures of strawberry pastries in swoony Paris. This time it’s a double-dip of berries paired with panna cotta and it’s pretty swell. Easier than it looks. Almost endlessly variably. And luscious, of course.

When was the last time you made panna cotta? Have you ever made it? I used to make it often and then – I didn’t. I’m not sure why I stopped, but I am sure that it’s going to be panna cotta now and all through the summer. It’s a no-bake back-pocket recipe (I love that expression) that gets made ahead (it needs time to set), is happy to hang out in the fridge for a day or two and can be dolled up with whatever fruit or jam you’ve got on hand. Or it can be served with just a drizzle of honey or a topping of crushed cookies or baked crunch. Or a spoonful of a sticky sweet liquor – I’m thinking crème de cassis. Or chocolate sauce. Or caramel. So many possibilities. Refer back to “endlessly variable”. Also, everyone loves it, which is a good thing because everyone will be getting it for dessert around here.

Panna cotta’s a sweet contradiction – it manages to simultaneously be one thing and its opposite. By definition, panna cotta is rich – the name means cooked cream and cream just can’t help itself, it’s rich. But somehow the custard feels remarkably light. It’s voluptuous, but lithe. Elegant, but playful. I credit the gelatin – it’s the gelatin that sets the mixture and makes it jiggly, and anything jiggly can only be whimsical.

I can already hear you turning the metaphorical page at the mention of gelatin, but come back! And on your way back, banish all thoughts of Jell-o and cafeteria desserts. Used right, gelatin is to dessert what inner seams are to a couture gown: it’s what gives it body. Also lightness – using gelatin to set a dessert means that you don’t have to use eggs or thickeners that might muddle flavors. It also makes the dessert unmoldable and that’s a nice thing.

While the classic panna cotta is made with all cream, I couldn’t resist playing with the balance to cut some of the richness and to add some tang. I kept the cream, but I had it go halfsies with buttermilk. Actually, I made the panna cotta two ways: I used 1 cup cream and 1 cup buttermilk in one version; and in the other I used 1 cup cream, 2/3 cup plain Greek yogurt and 1/3 cup milk. Both the buttermilk and the yogurt brightened the panna cotta – it went from cold-weather rich to have-it-on-the-deck light.

The tang’s a surprise. So is the addition of fruit. There’s a chunky strawberry mix to spoon into the bottom of each panna cotta and a toss of berries to finish the top. I also did a version with quick-steeped rhubarb for the bottom. Because I added only a little honey and vanilla to the rhubarb it held onto some of its sourness – a fun thing in this kind of dessert. But then there are lots of other fun possibilities with panna cotta (see Playing Around for a tad of inspo and the rhubarb variation).

If you make it – oh, please make it – let me know what you do with it. I love seeing your pictures here, on Facebook and Instagram. And if you don’t make it, I hope someone will make it for you – you could always forward this newsletter and see if they take the not-so-subtle hint. See you back here Friday.

The bowls and jars: You can put the panna cotta in any kind of bowl, jar or glass you’d like. Because there’s a pretty bottom layer, I like to use clear glass, but there aren’t any rules here. It’s obvious, but good to know ahead of time – the size of your bowl or glass will determine the number of portions you get. I made some in the cute little yogurt jars that Michael’s been saving for me – they each hold 2/3 cup, so I got 5 servings.

The tart stuff: Sometimes I make panna cotta with cream and buttermilk, one of my favorite ingredients, and sometimes I use cream and yogurt. For the yogurt version, I use 2/3 cup Greek yogurt (you can use regular yogurt, if you prefer) whisked with 1/3 cup milk. If you want less tartness, you can use a blend of cream and milk or go with all cream.

The turn-out: If you want to unmold the dessert onto a plate, choose lowish, straight-sided ramekins or bowls for the panna cotta – they’re easier to unmold from than tall glasses. Run a knife around the sides of each panna cotta to “break the seal,” and turn it over. It might take a little cajoling, but you’ll get it out.

Makes 4 to 5 servings (see above)

For the strawberry jam

For the panna cotta

For the topping

Getting set up: You’ll need small bowls, jars, tumblers or wine glasses for the panna cotta (see above). I often use small canning jars or (the washed-and-dried) jars from yogurt. You’ll get 2 1/2 cups of panna cotta, so the size of your bowls or jars will determine the number of servings you’ll get. Have whatever you’re using clean, dry and at the ready.

To make the strawberry jam: Stir the berries and honey together in a small saucepan. Place over medium heat and cook, stirring, about 4 minutes – you want the liquid to become syrupy and the berries to soften but remain chunky. Pull the pan from the heat and stir in a squirt of lime juice, if you’d like. Divide the berry jam among your bowls or jars and freeze for about 30 minutes, or just long enough to firm the jam, so it doesn’t slosh about when you pour in the panna cotta. For a different look, you can freeze the bowls or jars at an angle so that the jam runs up the sides.

To make the panna cotta: Put the gelatin in a microwave-safe measuring cup or bowl with a capacity of at least 3 cups. Pour over the 3 tablespoons cold water and let sit for 3 to 5 minutes, or until the gelatin has absorbed the water – it’ll look puffed.

Meanwhile, pour the cream into a small saucepan, stir in the sugar and honey and heat only until it just comes to a boil.

Heat the softened gelatin in the microwave for 15 seconds or until it liquefies. (If you don’t have a microwave, you can put the measuring cup or bowl into a pot of simmering water and heat until the gelatin melts.) Pour the boiled cream over the gelatin and gently stir to blend.

If you’re using yogurt, whisk it with the milk until smooth. Check your buttermilk or yogurt mixture – if it’s still cool, pour it into the warm pan you used to boil the cream and stir it around a bit. Pour the buttermilk or yogurt into the cream mixture and stir to blend well. Mix in the vanilla.

Remove the bowls or jars from the freezer and divide the panna cotta mixture among them. Refrigerate until set, at least 2 hours. (If you’re not going to have the panna cotta for a while, cover the tops.)

When you’re ready to serve, make the topping: Decide how you’d like to cut the berries – bite-size or quartered is nice and halved is a pretty look. Put the berries in a bowl, sprinkle over the sugar, stir and wait a few minutes for the sugar to melt and the berries to shine. Give the berries a squirt of lime juice, if you’d like, and then spoon some on the top of each serving.

STORING: Without the topping, the panna cotta can be covered and kept in the fridge for a day or two.

PLAYING AROUND: Here are few ideas to get you started ->

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