xoxo Dorie
Subscribe
Cover photo

Corn, corn, corn: Tricks and treats

Including a no-recipe recipe

Dorie Greenspan

Aug 31, 2021
24

Photo credit: Yulia Naumenko/ Getty Images

**********************************

Hello! Hello!

When Michael and I got back to Connecticut from Paris, we unpacked our bags and stocked the fridge. And then we headed to our local farm stand for fresh corn. Corn came into season while we were away and so we missed the excitement of turning up and seeing those first ears. We missed having corn every which way just about every day. But we’ve been making up for those cornless weeks ever since.

Most of the time we just eat the corn off the cob. Sometimes, if Michael’s got the grill going (he's the griller in the family), I’ll cook the ears on it, but these days, I’m most likely to hand the ears to him and let him do what our daughter-in-law Linling calls the corn trick. The ears go into the microwave oven - if they're too long to fit, cut the bottoms a bit - four ears take about 5 minutes. When the timer goes ding, Michael cuts the ears again – this time slicing off enough so that the kernels are exposed. Then he grabs the tops of the corn (you should use a dishtowel even if Michael doesn’t!!) and, holding tight, pushes and squeezes until the perfectly cooked ears shimmy out of their husks.

The corn trick

We never stopped loving straight-up corn-on-the-cob, but there’s so much to do with corn-off-the-cob – or even just the cobs. I keep a pile of cut-up cobs in the freezer and toss them into the pot when I’m making a summer vegetable soup, like pistou, or a corn chowder.

Fresh-off-the-cob corn chowder recipe from Everyday Dorie. Photo by Ellen Silverman

Cutting the kernels off the cobs is messy – scream if you’ve got a neat way – so just relax.

  • Put a small bowl upside down in a larger one. Husk the ear, getting the kernels as free of silk as you can, then slice the bottom of the cob – you want a solid base for this little operation.

Balancing the cob on a bowl within a bowl

  • Have a sturdy chef’s knife at the ready. Get a secure grip on the top of the corn and steady the base of the corn on the upturned small bowl. Now start cutting – begin at the top of the corn and slice down, getting as close to the cob as you can to release the kernels. Be careful not to hit the blade against the rim of the bowl – it’s not good for the knife. I usually lift the bottom of the cob up when I get to it, so that I can cut the last inch or so of corn above the bowl. Inevitably, there’ll be run-away kernels, but most of them should land in the big bowl.

Liberated kernels

  • If you’re making a dish that will benefit from corn juice, scrape the back of the knife against the cobs to squish it out.

The other night, taking my lead from my colleague Sam Sifton's book, New York Times Cooking No-Recipe Recipes, I made my own no-recipe recipe: Corn-Off-the-Cob and Scallops. It was the kind of dish that could have gone a million ways and been delicious in any version. So here’s a sketch of the recipe. If you riff on it, you know I want to know.

Corn-off-the-cob and scallops

  • For the corn, sauté a chopped small onion (it could be a shallot) in a little olive oil (or bacon fat, if you've got it) – I used a large skillet - and then turn the kernels into the skillet, up the heat and cook until they’re charred here and there. When they have some color, pour in a little water (or broth) and sauté/poach the corn. Taste for doneness – you might need a tad more liquid, but however much you add, cook it away.

  • Spoon the corn into a wide serving bowl, season generously with salt, coarsely ground pepper and maybe some chile flakes, then dress lightly with vinaigrette. If you prefer, you can just moisten with more olive oil and a splash of vinegar or a squeeze of lemon or lime juice. Fold in whatever you’d like: chopped red pepper, hot pepper, lots of sliced scallions, chopped tomatoes or halved small tomatoes, a handful of roughly chopped or torn herbs.

That night I lined the bowl with some salad greens dressed with vinaigrette before adding the corn.

  • For the scallops, make sure to pat them dry. Heat a large skillet (I’ve got a nonstick that I like for this) and brush the bottom with olive or canola oil. Place the scallops in the skillet – don’t crowd them – and cook, without moving them, until they’re golden brown on the bottom and opaque almost to the middle. Brush their tops with oil and turn them over to brown the other side and finish cooking the interiors. Some of the scallops might stick – I hate that! – so just get under them with your metal spatula, curse the sauté witches, flip and carry on.

Arrange the scallops over the corn and season with salt and pepper. I had some pesto in the fridge, so I brushed the scallops with it just before serving – nice!

More corn talk on Friday – see you then.

xoxo Dorie

PS: To make sure that you get every issue of this newsletter, add doriegreenspan@bulletin.com to your contacts. In Gmail, move this email to your Primary inbox. In Apple Mail, add me to your VIP list. In Outlook, add me to your favorites.

Subscribe for free to xoxo Dorie
By subscribing, you agree to share your email address with Dorie Greenspan to receive their original content, including promotions. Unsubscribe at any time. Meta will also use your information subject to the Bulletin Terms and Policies
24

More from xoxo Dorie
See all

Welcome to my newsletter!

A word on why I'm doing this...
Oct 11, 2021
11
17

Pucker Up for Some Like It Tart Panna Cotta

Easy, endlessly variable, and everyone loves it
Today
2
4

Easy-peasy, salty-sweet chocolate fudge with pretzels and chips

5 minutes in the kitchen and you've got fudge for a crowd - magic!
May 19
7
4
Comments
Log in with Facebook to comment

24 Comments

  • Beth Loyd
    wow, a microwave!!! I never would have guessed! I usually soak the ears with husks in water for an hour and then chuck them into the oven with husks still on.
    • 38w
    • Author
      Dorie Greenspan
      Roasting in the oven makes delicious corn! But when you don't have the time and don't want to turn on the oven (it's been known to happen), you can just pull this little trick out of your tool box - xoxoD
      • 37w
  • Kathy McKay
    I use a bundt pan, sticking the silked end into the hole, and holding the husk end stable, while slicing the corn off into the welcoming bottom of the bundt pan. Loving every Dorrie bit that comes my way - thanks for being part of our lives, Dorrie!
    • 38w
    • Author
      Dorie Greenspan
      Thanks for the sweet and kind words, Kathy - and for the good explanation of how you use the bundt - xoxoDorie
      • 38w
  • Helen Glavina
    Dorie, I recently watched a TikTok video where the guy pushed the cobs through the hole in a bundt pan. Haven't tried it myself, but the video looked convincing.
    • 38w
    • Author
      Dorie Greenspan
      Funny, someone on my FB Page just mentioned using a Bundt pan, but I think she was using it instead of two bowls - xoxoDorie
      • 38w
  • Karen Swaine
    When slicing corn off the cob I stand the flat bottom on a 1/2 sheetpan so I can slice all the way down (no side of bowl to hit with knife).. it all just accumulates on the sheet pan.
    3
    • 37w
    • Author
      Dorie Greenspan
      A good idea! Thanks - xoxoDorie
      • 37w
  • Lori Joyal
    Hi Dorie! We grow lots of corn and we too have struggled with the easiest way to remove corn from the cob. My mom found the following tool at Stonewall Kitchen in Maine a couple of years ago and it has been a game changer - give it a try!!! Lori/Sudbur…
    See more
    Corn Prep Peeler
    OXO.COM
    Corn Prep Peeler
    Corn Prep Peeler
    • 38w
    • Author
      Dorie Greenspan
      What a cool tool! Thank you so much and please thank your mom, too - xoxoDorie
      • 38w
  • June Pickering
    I recently found a recipe using corn, shrimp and tomatoes. Wow... it was delicious with those blistered cherry tomatoes cooked along with the other ingredients. I tried to find it but it's lost on Pinterest somehow. I will definitely try scallops next! Thanks.
    • 37w
    • Author
      Dorie Greenspan
      Actually, your lost corn recipe and my found one sound similar. Hope you make the recipe - tell us about it when you do - I'd say we're all ears, but ... Enjoy! xoxoDorie
      • 37w
  • Kathleen Treat
    Bonjour, Dorie. Just wanted to thank you for the Gougeres recipe.
    Colette mentions them several times in her memoirs. Yum!
    • 38w
    • Author
      Dorie Greenspan
      Colette + gougères - now there's a nice combination. Merci - xoxoDorie
      • 38w
  • Wendy Sikes
    Buying corn tomorrow, everything looks so yummy! I use a Kuhn Rikon Corn Zipper, I love it.
    • 37w
    • Author
      Dorie Greenspan
      Wendy, here's another good recipe: https://doriegreenspan.bulletin.com/531619911429043/...
      More corn: Corn and noodles, the deluxe recipe
      DORIEGREENSPAN.BULLETIN.COM
      More corn: Corn and noodles, the deluxe recipe
      More corn: Corn and noodles, the deluxe recipe
      • 37w
  • Loretta Terranova
    I second Lori Joyal’s recommendation for the Oxo corn peeler- works like a charm!!
    • 38w
    • Author
      Dorie Greenspan
      Ordered!! xoxoDorie
      • 38w
  • Cherie Twohy
    Dorie--have you ever tried using a mandoline for taking kernels off corn? It's my go-to method and has changed my corn-life! Cheers!
    • 38w
    • Author
      Dorie Greenspan
      I love my mandoline and would love another use for it - I'll give it a try. Thank you - xoxoDorie
      • 38w
View 3 more comments
Share quoteSelect how you’d like to share below
Share on Facebook
Share to Twitter
Send in Whatsapp
Share on Linkedin
Privacy  ·  Terms  ·  Cookies
© Meta 2022
Discover fresh voices. Tune into new conversations. Browse all publications